How to Paint Flames

With the new Space Marine codex we’re no doubt going to see Space Marine Captains or Chapter Masters carrying the burning blade. My Chapter master is no exception so I thought I would make a little tutorial showing you how to quickly and easily paint fire on your models. Start off by base coating or undercoating the flames white and then add a couple of thin layers of Flash Gitz Yellow (GW Layer). Next we apply a thin coat of Fire Dragon Bright (GW Layer) to the edges of the flames and the raised parts of the flames. Once this is dry take some Wild Rider Red and apply it to the very edges of the flames. You might also choose to apply some White Scar to the inner most parts of the flames also. To bring all the colours together and get a smoother looking transition between the colours you’ll need to apply a glaze of Bloodletter (GW Glaze) over the red and orange parts. I used Casandora Yellow (GW Shade) mixed with a little glaze medium to apply a glaze over the yellow and white areas. Both glazes were mixed slightly where they...

Master of the Forge Conversion...

This is a model I have had lying around for ages. I cannot remember where it’s from but it was used as an alternative model to represent the Primarch Ferrus Manus (who now has an awesome Forgeworld model coming out). I thought it would make a great base for a Space Marine Master of the Forge. The head was replaced with the techmarine head from the Dark Angels Ravenwing upgrade sprues and I also added the end of a flamer onto his servo arms. He was pretty straight forward to paint. For his armour I used the new GW Mephiston red spray paint for the base coat and then wet blended Abaddon Black for the shadows and Fire Dragon Bright for the highlights. The armour was then given a thinned wash of Drakenhof...

Using Old Brushes and Cheap Brushes...

There are several articles online about which are the best brushes to use for this hobby. In fact I will write one using my own recommendations in the future but before that I wanted to talk about cheap brushes and old brushes and their uses. You might wonder why anyone would use these brushes if they wish to improve their painting but they do have their place and in certain circumstances they can be very good. I recently picked up this Royal and Langnickel Sable Super Value Brush Set because I wanted some flat brushes to use for drybrushing and it’s fantastic. An absolute bargain for under £5 and the brushes themselves are actually pretty good quality considering the price. I’m a big fan of the Games Workshop brushes however I really don’t like the shape of their drybrushes and since I’ve started using these brushes for dry brushing I’ve really noticed the difference. The regular shaped brushes in this set also serve several purposes. The larger brushes are pretty good for basecoating terrain and vehicles and the smaller brushes can be used for regular base coating. Another use I have for these brushes are mixing paint on my pallet. I would much rather use an cheap brush for this as sometimes you can find paint will get in the ferule of the brush and you don’t want that for your good brushes. When it comes to old brushes, I mainly use mine for applying glue to bases or transfers onto model, in the rare moments that I actually use them. It’s well worth keeping your old brushes for these purposes. You may also use the other end of the brushes for larger work involving green stuff. Another technique I use old brushes for,...

NNM Gold For Beginners

In this tutorial I’m going to show you how to do a basic non metallic gold effect on your models. I’m by no means an expert on this technique as I’m still in the process of learning it myself but with anything we all need to start somewhere and I hope this tutorial will be a springboard for others who want to get into learning how to achieve non metallic gold. In this example I’m going to be working on the Crozius Arcanum of the Space Marine plastic Chaplain. We start by giving the area a basecoat of 50/50 Balor Brown (GW Layer) and Gorthor Brown (GW Layer) The next step is to apply some shading. I used a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade (GW Shade) and Carroburg Crimson (GW Shade) Our first highlighting stage requires all the raised areas to be highlighted with Balor Brown Next up is the part I think trickiest when doing NNM and that is highlighting where the light source would be most strong. In this example I’m going to assume the light is hitting the model from the top/front. I created a 70/30 mix of Balor Brown and Screaming Skull for this highlight and highlighted just on the edges of the raised areas, the top of the skull, above it’s eye sockets and along the top of the Crozius. Tip: Taking a photo of the model with your cameras flash on from the angle you want the light to hit the model will give you a good picture showing where the light source would be hitting it. For the final highlighting step I added a little bit more Screaming Skull to the previous mix along with a tiny bit of White Scar (GW Layer) This was only applied...

White Tau Riptide

I’ve had this model sitting on my desk for sometime now. He’s not my greatest work by any stretch and I do plan on doing some extra work on the green and purple areas in the future but I am very happy with how the white came out on this model. It’s the first time I’ve painted white on such a large...